Aperture

Aperture refers to the hole in your lens that allows the light into the camera. The size of the hole affects the amount of light coming in and the depth of field. It’s measurement is called an F Stop. An F Stop is a fractional degree of light so to explain simply, the bigger the opening the smaller the F number and the larger the opening the larger the F number. Aperture works Incrementally so therefore with each step down the aperture blades let in half as much light.

Image courtesy of http://www.photographylife.com

Aperture Scale

From top to bottom I have listed F Stops from large to small. Starting at f/1.4 which is a very large opening of your aperture blades and lets in lets in a lot of light to f/32 which lets in barely any. Each stop let’s in half the amount of light.

  • f/1.4
  • f/2.0
  • f/2.8
  • f/4.0
  • f/5.6
  • f/8.0
  • f/11.0
  • f/16.0
  • f/22.0
  • f/32.0
Image courtesy of http://www.photographylife.com

These are the main aperture “stops,” but most cameras and lenses today let you set some values in between, such as f/1.8 or f/3.5. Which I will demonstrate with my camera in exercise 4.1 below.

Activity 4.1: Aperture and depth of field

For this activity you will need to find a long, uninterrupted subject or scene such as a fence, ladder, ruler or path. Using this subject you will shoot a series of images utilising your full available aperture range.

Set your camera’s shooting mode to Aperture priority (A/Av) and begin with the widest aperture available on your lens (e.g. f/1.4, f/3.5). 

Without moving the camera, shoot multiple images throughout the aperture range (i.e. f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22). 

Compare the final images. How did your aperture settings affect the depth of field in each image? How did each aperture adjustment affect your other exposure settings (i.e. shutter speed, ISO)

The Results

I set my camera to Aperture Priority mode, selected the largest aperture on my f/5.6 18-55 mm kit lens and walked down to the front of our complex where there is a long brick fence so I could demonstrate this exercise. The largest aperture I can set this lens to is F/5.6 so I started with that and cycled through 17 shots to F/36. As you can see with the gallery below the depth of field , sharpness in the foreground and background as well as colour changes slightly with each image. For the metadata on each image if you click on an image in the gallery it will display it with a larger image on a side scrolling gallery with the Focal length and aperture as well as ISO for each shot. All images are unedited and loaded into Lightroom before sending to my Dropbox as jpgs rather than RAW.

Shutter Speed – Light Painting and Long Exposures

The tasks

Activity 5.3: Long exposure photography

Long exposure photography refers to images captured using a long, or slow, shutter speed—often in the seconds, rather than fractions of seconds.

Ideal subjects for long exposure photography are sunrises, waterfalls, fireworks, night shots and more. A tripod is essential and a shutter release cable, or camera remote, a bonus.


Activity 5.4: Light painting

Light painting is a technique which involves moving a portable or handheld light source, such as a torch, while taking a long exposure.

The light source can be used either to illuminate the subject or to shine directly at the camera.

The Results

Long exposure photography has long been a favourite of mine or as I like to call it Playing with Light. I don’t get out as often as I should to capture beautiful sunrises , waterfalls, fountains or light trails. For my long exposure in this exercise I chose to nip around the corner to Victoria Road and capture some light trails. For the light painting we used sparklers as I couldn’t find the finger lights. The featured image is one I took at Homebush Bay Near Wentworth Point on The Parramatta River, looking across to Rhodes from Homebush Bay /Olympic Park at Sunset, I used a Nikkor 18-55 mm lens Nikon D3200 ISO 100 F/36 1 sec 55mm and also a pink graduated filter to enhance the pinks and purples in the clouds.

This set of exercises was a great deal of fun, and I got to indulge in one of my favourite activities and get my daughter to join in by letting her dance around with sparklers. It took her a few goes to get what I wanted and while I didn’t get the perfect shot I was after it was fun and it’s more for the technique for the excercise in Camera and Capture module 5.

The location for the light trails isn’t the most interesting as I just popped down around the corner to Maccas because know it’s busy and I could focus easier on the signs in the dark.

For all of the light trails and light painting shots, I shot in bulb mode with tripod and camera release remote so I could shoot for longer periods of time without camera shake.

I really wish I’d had a filter on when I was shooting the light trails so the street lights looked better in the photos but that’s about my only gripe and something I’ll remember next time as it was on my 55-200 mm lens and not on the 18-55 lens I was using when I was shooting.

My favourite shot is the bottom one where you can just see the charter sign on the bus as it takes off.

Shutter Speed

The tasks

Activity 5.1: Freezing and Blurring Motion

For your first task this lesson, we will experiment with shutter speed to see how the various settings effect movement and motion.

Find a moving subject such as a person running, car driving, water flowing or birds flying. For best results your subject and its movement should be predictable and repeatable. For this reason, finding a friend or family member to run laps at the local park, for example, is an ideal solution.

With moving subject ready, set, go! – capture a series of images cycling through the shutter speed settings from fast (e.g. 1/2000, 1/4000) to slow (e.g. 1/2, 1”) and compare and contrast the results

Activity 5.2: Panning

Panning is a shutter speed technique which freezes a moving object whilst blurring the background.

It’s a lot of fun and the results can be spectacular. However, it also requires a lot of trial and error – not to mention plenty of patience!

Like the previous activity, for best results you will need a subject in motion whose movement is predictable and repeatable. You may use the same subject for this exercise if you choose.

Panning works by choosing a slow shutter speed (e.g. 1/8, 1/4) while you track your subject’s movement, either horizontally or vertically.

The exact shutter speed required will vary depending on the focal length used, the speed of your subject and the distance between the camera and your subject. It’s best to pick a starting shutter speed of around 1/8 or 1/15 and then work from there by adjusting the shutter speed until you find the right one, then taking lots of shots.

The Results

For this activity I went to Parramatta plaza and Parramatta Park as there is a great variety of subjects and a roadway for cars, joggers and cyclists. I also needed a break from my family as prior to this it had been raining for weeks. I found the slower the speed and the quicker I moved which I will say was difficult with a shoulder injury the crisper the panning image and I like the little white hatch the best. And of course the faster the shutter speed the more things were frozen as seen with the cyclist and the people frozen whilst in motion in the plaza . Too slow and the image takes on an abstract painterly look as people walk past. I think my favourite was the man standing still while others walked past displaying crisp sharpness and motion blur in the one image, I used manual for that shot and a really slow shutter speed of about 3 seconds and a Nikkor 70-300mm lens, and my tripod and camera remote.

I really enjoyed just getting out with my camera and getting creative with techniques I haven’t thought about using in years. I’ll definitely be using more creative work in future photography projects.

Comparing Light

The task – Activity 3.1: Comparing light 

Photograph a set of images of a static subject that will allow you to make a comparison between the effect and look of light at different times during the day.

Steps: 

  • Find a location well lit by natural light either at home (eg a room with a north facing window) or an outdoor scene that you can easily return to photograph from the same position/viewpoint throughout the day.
  • If shooting at home, position an object within the room in such a way as to achieve a visually attractive composition. Ensure that the object may remain in that same position throughout the day.
  • If shooting an outdoor location, make sure you are photographing the same scene.
  • Shoot in Program Mode and set the white balance to the daylight preset in your camera or 5500K using your camera’s custom white balance so you can observe the effect time of day and weather have on the colour of light and the colour casts produced during the day.
  • Take at least 5 shots spread out over the day.

The Results

For this activity I chose my favourite plant. I was actually quite fortunate with changing light during the day as we had cloud cover and brilliant sunlight at various times ranging from 8.30am to 3.18pm. The most noticeable changes were in colour hue and intensity of light with the changes in conditions and with the strength of light coming in the window. The light cast shade and illuminated different parts of the orchids depending whether there was brilliant sunlight or more muted light with cloud cover.

Ashy loves helping me when I‘m working
The Subject and location on my kitchen table beside the window

Making Patterns in Illustrator( losing your mind in 5 simple steps)

Finished Image Vector Pattern

So module 4’s seemingly easy task of creating a pattern from a photo, specifically of an objects shadow that had to be recognised as an object and turned into a vector image seemed relatively simple, however I found it frustrating trying to save the art board of the pattern and exporting it as a jpg for the assessment and to post to the forum and here. By Comparison part two of the module will be a drawing of my hand without looking at the papertimed over 10 minutes which I will post shortly which I thought would be the harder of the two was so relaxing in comparison to the 3 hour ordeal in trying to save an image in Illustrator. I don’t use Illustrator often I’m a huge fan of photoshop and Lightroom but I find Illustrator cumbersome and frustrating to use.

Screen shot of my work in progress
Item the shadow image came from
Shadow photo for creating vector art pattern

Focal length test.

This task called for us to capture a portrait and a landscape or cityscape using wide normal and telephoto length lenses. It’s been a while between camera and capture posts with internet issues and hospital appointments for my daughters Crohns Disease management and my autistic sons psychology and TAFE days , also with my partner having been away for almost a month I was having issues with my time management and the realisation it’s impossible to be in two places at once. So I will be posting all the exercises this week that I haven’t had a chance to blog about as well as working on my assessments for all four subjects.

Portrait

Activity 2.1

The portrait task was made more interesting by the fact that we had to keep the same framing at the three different focal lengths which meant moving around and using my reference shot changing lenses as well as using my iPhone as well to guide myself with where my camera should be for each shot. My partner kindly obliged to be the subject for this exercise. I personally prefer the telephoto length shot as my partner is 6’2” ft And I’m a lot shorter, I didn’t feel like we were cramped into a small space and it has a slightly softer quality to the image.

Activity 2.1 composing my portrait shot

Cityscape

Activity 2.1

I scouted a few locations until i found the one i wanted and decided to shoot at night. I had a few goes until i found a spot on the river i was happy with but here is one of the locations on Marsden Road that i had initially thought of then dismissed and then decided to have a go because the view over Paramatta is amazing but i just couldn’t get the shot I was after, I did get an okay light trail though.

For my cityscape focal length shots I chose a view from Ermington Boat Ramp looking across the Parramatta River to Rhodes and Olympic Park. Essentially the idea was the same as with the Portraits except that this time the camera and tripod stayed in place and the idea was to zoom in from wide to telephoto to see how the composition of the image changed.

A Visual Oxymoron

Face Palm

Face Palm

This task for part 2 of module 3 asked us to create a Visual Oxymoron, I’ll admit i  had a complete creative block and ended up playing around with photo editing programs and creating composite images with a self portrait when I struck apon an idea of a portrait being a mirror image and mirrors being reflective of our images and rested an image composite that worked, I’m not sure that I have the idea of a visual oxymoron correct but here is my take on it. It lends to face palming 🤦‍♀️ when you feel silly so I’m calling my finished image Face Palm 🤦‍♀️.

Original Image and the Final image

Module 3: Importing and Organising Images in Lightroom

Image courtesy of Adobe

This weeks task was to download Adobe Lightroom and create a catalogue of images. Already having been a long time user of Adobe Lightroom I have an excellent catalogue system already in place, and generally try to associate keywords with images such as animals, faces, locations etc so I can find images quickly if I need to. As such I didn’t have anything other than a blog post to create for this weeks digital imaging task. If you don’t use Lightroom or have never used it before for image workflow and asset management I can’t recommend a programme that’s going to make your life easier than this one.

Image courtesy of brisbanephotographic.com.au

Colour Swatches

Colour Themes Collection Module 3 Part 1 

Attachment

The Task

I really enjoyed this exercise, looking at images and colour pattern, palates and swatches was very relaxing and I even found an app for my iPhone called Adobe Capture that I can use out and about with my photography for colour asset management and will make colour themes easy to achieve.

This exercise asked to chose 5 images for each category and post our favourite colour Swatches from each of the 5.

The five themes:

  1. Natural environment 
  2. Corporate culture 
  3. Relaxed 
  4. Contemporary design 
  5. 1960’s London 

Natural Environment Palate

Relaxing Palate

Contemporary Design Palate

1960’s London Palate

Corporate Culture Palate